Itineraries to help you
discover a singular beauty

WANDERING AROUND THE OLTRARNO

Hunting for the Gonfaloni of old
and the artisan workshops

There are a thousand different ways to visit and discover "the other Florence": the Oltrarno (other side of the Arno). The best way is on foot, crossing one of the four historical bridges: Ponte alla Carraia, Ponte Santa Trinita, Ponte Vecchio or Ponte alle Grazie. That’s how to get to the quarter of Santo Spirito, symbolized by a white dove with golden rays in a blue field.
 
 

                                 Church of  Santo Spirito


Originally, and up to the end of the 12th century, the urban territory of Florence was divided into quarters. When the city walls were enlarged between 1172 and 1175, the city had to be divided into six districts which also included the hamlets that had sprung up on the other side of the river, and which, with their many artisan activities, were to become a fundamental factor in the economic life of the city.
These six districts included various peoples and groups and were then called Gonfaloni, after the standards that identified the different districts and around which the inhabitants of the area gathered. In 1343 the Gonfaloni were reorganized since the city had grown considerably within the new circle of Arnolfo di Cambio’s walls. The original six districts were replaced by a new subdivision into quarters named after the city’s most important churches: San Giovanni, Santa Maria Novella, Santa Croce and Santo Spirito. The number of Gonfaloni was set at 16 and their functions gradually took on an administrative nature.
 The quarter of Santo Spirito was subdivided into 4 gonfalons: Drago, Ferza, Nicchio and Scala. Each gonfalon differed as to size, population and social fabric, but they were all characterized by spacious green areas within the walls and by the prevalence of wool guild workers and craftsmen, especially in the Gonfalone of San Frediano (Drago) and that of Santo Spirito (Ferza).
Nowadays the Oltrarno is a living reality where the past is still alive in the "hum" of generations of craftsmen tenaciously attached to their ancient crafts.
In the labyrinth of lanes in the Oltrarno one can still encounter artisans who preserve and hand down original and refined working methods, directly transmitted by the craftsmen who in past centuries enriched Florence with their handmade objects. The survival of these techniques is entrusted to the patience and diligence with which they ply their craft every day, producing unique pieces appreciated by those who know a fine craft object when they see it.
For Antonio Paolucci the "true genius of the Italians" lies in their artisan talents, the fruit of "a conscious transmission of beauty, an ancient wisdom which flowers in the fantasy or in the intellect".
 
Mario Carniani 

 

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Economic Development Department
Tourist Department
Tourist Promotion and Reception

Project coordinators
Michele Ricceri
Giovanna Giovanchelli

Text
Mario Carniani

Design
Logo Comunicazione

Translation
Studio Comunicare

Information
Chiasso de’ Baroncelli, 17/r (Piazza Signoria)
Tel. 230.21.24
Piazza Stazione (outer awning) Tel. 21.22.45
Via Cavour, 12 - Tel. 29.08.32